A live fish flaps as it is scooped in a net from the tank at the front of the restaurant. In the background, there’s a loud clang of plates as the waiter re-sets one of the round tables.

It’s lunch time on a Sunday and not many tables are left empty, albeit respecting social distancing. The New Big Gun Chinese Restaurant is proof that not all the best Asian gems are in Sunnybank.

While the facade of the restaurant on Logan Road serves up photos displaying a visual feast of yum cha delights, it’s difficult to see from the road, overshadowed by the big blue butcher’s building next door.

Make your way past the lucky cat at the counter, admire the lucky 8s on the wall, and take in the lucky fish and red lanterns which dominate the art on the walls.

Then, well … you’re in luck? Order a Tsing Tao beer and prepare yourself for the real deal – a two-sided menu of more than 70 options

. This place is a reminder of Hong Kong where yum cha is arguably done best.

Even the television at one end of the large open room plays Chinese language news. Wait staff yell instructions to each other from opposite sides of the floor. And the number one language on the menus is Chinese, with brief English descriptions and photos enough to entice those whose Mandarin or Cantonese is a little rusty.

Plump dumplings are made in-house, the pork and chive highly recommended.

And the attention to detail is as tasty as it is refreshing. Some yum cha restaurants thrive on deep-fried and greasy foods. And while there are fried options on the menu, there’s a mix of fresh ingredients and authentic Chinese recipes.

San choi bao is flavoured with natural ingredients, including a sprinkling of sesame seeds. Salt and pepper tofu is flavoured with an onion, capsicum and spice blend. Crispy outsides subtly complement a silky texture inside.

Chicken feet are a favourite. But if they’re not your thing, maybe the deep fried ice cream will be more to your liking.

Take time to absorb the atmosphere, and you could well be in Hong Kong or China.

NB: This food review was paid for by the reviewer.

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