Crafting a menu for Chatswood Mall’s latest eatery, 5 Boroughs, must have been difficult – representing one of the world’s most vibrant food cultures in one place.
And not a pizza or hot dog in sight.
But the minute fries land on the table as loaded as a New York millionaire, alongside a burger the height of the Empire State Building, you know instantly you’re in the right place.
The food is all ultra-fresh, but it’s one night you’ll have to put the diet on hold.
Since opening about six weeks ago, the place has been packed, even on Monday and Tuesday nights when other restaurants choose to close.
There are half a dozen of the franchise in different corners of Brisbane, so you could argue that the Chatswood Shopping Precinct store upset the direct “5 Borough” analogy.
Nobody’s complaining though, because without it, we wouldn’t have somewhere local to get hold of an “aloha bacon and cheese”, built high with beef, plenty of smoky bacon, cheese, sauce, grilled pineapple and some token lettuce leaves to make you feel good about yourself.
Onion rings come in one size – large.
And who can go past some “Poutine fries” topped with shaved halloumi and beef gravy.
There’s a bunch of American favourites, including brine pickles for starters, mac n cheese croquettes which you can even order onto a burger, fish tacos just like you’d get in a New York food van, and all varieties of smoked meats.
There’s ribs and steaks, but whatever you order here, there’s a specialised sauce to go with it, and a degree of lavishness unmatched in restaurants where you’ll feel far less guilty about your order.
There are options, and there’s an equal amount of pleasure in moving down the coast to Miami to order a Cuban with leg ham, slow-cooked smoked pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard.
A Reuben on rye is another sandwich, done just like you’d get in one of the many corner cafes in and around Broadway or Central Park.
New York provides almost every food imaginable.
But the spirit of 5 Boroughs which to tourists of New York was initially a campaign to get people into the suburbs, is to experience the hearty flavours of the best diners at a single venue.
That’s what this new restaurant does in spades. It is highly extravagant, for sure.
Consider it a treat. Be warned, however. You’re likely to be finding an excuse to go back for seconds.
